ORCID

Abstract

This study investigates deterministic wave forecasting from the perspective of the Zakharov equation. Forecasts based on linear dispersion, weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion, and the Zakharov equation are compared for reference ocean surfaces generated from JONSWAP and Pierson-Moskowitz spectra. This approach allows for the role of nonlinearity to be isolated, and demonstrates the success of simple frequency corrections in forecasting wave-fields up to moderate steepness. The role of second-order bound waves is investigated by means of analytical formulae, and their impact on forecast accuracy is illustrated for a range of forecast times.

DOI

10.1017/jfm.2021.50

Publication Date

2021-01-13

Publication Title

Journal of Fluid Mechanics

Volume

913

ISSN

0022-1120

Embargo Period

2021-09-03

Organisational Unit

School of Engineering, Computing and Mathematics

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