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dc.contributor.authorScott, Tim
dc.contributor.authorMasselink, Gerd
dc.contributor.authorAustin, MJ
dc.contributor.authorRussell, Paul
dc.date.accessioned2014-09-02T16:37:49Z
dc.date.accessioned2014-09-02T16:43:41Z
dc.date.available2014-09-02T16:37:49Z
dc.date.available2014-09-02T16:43:41Z
dc.date.issued2014-06-01
dc.identifier.issn0169-555X
dc.identifier.issn1872-695X
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/3095
dc.descriptionEPSRC funded. NERC - RNLI partnership grant NE/H004262/1, Dynamics of Rip Currents and Implications for Beach Safety. The full text is under embargo until 01.06.15. NOTICE: this is the author’s version of a work that was accepted for publication in <Geomorphology. Changes resulting from the publishing process, such as peer review, editing, corrections, structural formatting, and other quality control mechanisms may not be reflected in this document. Changes may have been made to this work since it was submitted for publication. A definitive version was subsequently published in Geomorphology, [VOl 214, (01.06.14)] DOI 10.1016/j.geomorph.2014.02.005
dc.description.abstract

Rip currents are strong, narrow seaward-flowing currents in the surf zone and are common on energetic sandy beaches. They are generally associated with distinct beach morphology, comprising nearshore sand bars and channels, and represent a real natural hazard to surf zone users. Rip current circulation is primarily driven by spatial gradients in wave breaking and water levels in the surf zone, which in turn are controlled by beach morphology, offshore wave conditions and tidal level. These factors, which are highly variable over hours (tides), days (waves) and weeks (morphology), also control the rip risk to bathers. However, the precise roles of these different environmental factors in controlling rip dynamics on meso- to macro-tidal beaches are not exactly known and thresholds separating different types of rip circulation and flow strengths, and hence rip risk, have not been quantified. Here, the analysis of 5-year lifeguard incident records from 20 beaches in southwest England showed that high-risk, high-exposure scenarios for bathers occur disproportionately around mean low water on days with low wave height (Hs<1m), long wave period (Tp>10s), shore-normal wave approach and light winds (>5ms-1). Detailed in-situ Lagrangian field measurements of rip currents collected on 23 different days from Perranporth beach, UK identified waves (characterised by HsTp) and active morphology (characterised by tidal elevation) as the key controlling factors determining the mode of rip behaviour. Maximum hazard was associated with the combination of maximum rip exits and rip flow speeds. These conditions occurred when HsTp was at or just below average values and when those waves were acting on the active morphological template, around mean low water. The thresholds in wave conditions and tidal elevation identified here were effective in discriminating between observed coast-wide high-risk incident events, illustrating that such mass rescue events have a considerable element of environmental control. Because many beaches along the west coast of southwest England are characterised by nearshore bar morphology just below the mean low water level, and are affected by similar wave and tide conditions, the results obtained from this beach are transferable to other locations. The findings of this study may also have implications for other beaches with nearshore bar-rip morphology at specific tidal levels. © 2014 Elsevier B.V.

dc.format.extent198-215
dc.languageen
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherElsevier BV
dc.relation.replaceshttp://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/3094
dc.relation.replaces10026.1/3094
dc.subjectRip currents
dc.subjectBeach morphodynamics
dc.subjectBeach morphology
dc.subjectMacrotidal
dc.subjectBeach hazard
dc.subjectBeach safety
dc.titleControls on macrotidal rip current circulation and hazard
dc.typejournal-article
dc.typeArticle
plymouth.author-urlhttps://www.webofscience.com/api/gateway?GWVersion=2&SrcApp=PARTNER_APP&SrcAuth=LinksAMR&KeyUT=WOS:000336345700016&DestLinkType=FullRecord&DestApp=ALL_WOS&UsrCustomerID=11bb513d99f797142bcfeffcc58ea008
plymouth.volume214
plymouth.publication-statusPublished
plymouth.journalGEOMORPHOLOGY
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.geomorph.2014.02.005
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Admin Group - REF
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Admin Group - REF/REF Admin Group - FoSE
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering/School of Biological and Marine Sciences
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA/UoA07 Earth Systems and Environmental Sciences
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Research Groups
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Research Groups/Marine Institute
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role/Academics
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role/Researchers in ResearchFish submission
dc.identifier.eissn1872-695X
dc.rights.embargoperiodNot known
rioxxterms.funderNatural Environment Research Council
rioxxterms.identifier.projectDynamics of Rip currents and Implications for Beach Safety (DRIBS)
rioxxterms.versionofrecord10.1016/j.geomorph.2014.02.005
rioxxterms.licenseref.urihttp://www.rioxx.net/licenses/all-rights-reserved
rioxxterms.typeJournal Article/Review
plymouth.funderDynamics of Rip currents and Implications for Beach Safety (DRIBS)::Natural Environment Research Council


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