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dc.contributor.authorCastelle, B
dc.contributor.authorMasselink, Gerd
dc.date.accessioned2022-10-24T14:49:14Z
dc.date.available2022-10-24T14:49:14Z
dc.date.issued2022-08-23
dc.identifier.issn2754-7205
dc.identifier.issn2754-7205
dc.identifier.othere1
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/19747
dc.description.abstract

<jats:title>Abstract</jats:title> <jats:p>Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world’s most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited sand supply and limited influence of tide and geology, beach change has long been conceptualised in the morphodynamic framework of Wright and Short (1984). Such framework describes the occurrence of beach types based on wave conditions and sediment characteristics across the complete reflective–dissipative spectrum. Building on theoretical work, field/laboratory measurements and monitoring programmes, the physical mechanisms underpinning this morphodynamic framework have been progressively unravelled. Cross-shore morphological changes are primarily controlled by equilibrium and beach memory principles with below (above) average wave conditions driving down-state (up-state) transitions associated with onshore (offshore) sediment transport. Such cross-shore behaviour mostly reflects the imbalance between the onshore-directed sediment transport driven by wave nonlinearities and the offshore-directed sediment transport driven by the undertow. Self-organised morphological instabilities resulting from different positive feedback mechanisms are primarily responsible for alongshore morphological variability and the generation of rhythmic morphological features, such as crescentic bars, rip channels and beach cusps. Critically, wave climate and changes in wave regimes are key in driving the coupled cross-shore and longshore behaviour that ultimately explains modal beach state and frequency-response characteristics of beach morphological time series.</jats:p>

dc.languageen
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherCambridge University Press (CUP)
dc.titleMorphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches
dc.typejournal-article
plymouth.volume1
plymouth.publication-statusPublished
plymouth.journalCambridge Prisms: Coastal Futures
dc.identifier.doi10.1017/cft.2022.2
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering/School of Biological and Marine Sciences
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA/UoA07 Earth Systems and Environmental Sciences
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Research Groups
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Research Groups/Marine Institute
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role/Academics
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role/Researchers in ResearchFish submission
dcterms.dateAccepted2022-08-10
dc.rights.embargodate2022-10-25
dc.identifier.eissn2754-7205
dc.rights.embargoperiodNot known
rioxxterms.versionofrecord10.1017/cft.2022.2
rioxxterms.licenseref.urihttp://www.rioxx.net/licenses/all-rights-reserved
rioxxterms.typeJournal Article/Review
plymouth.funderPhysical and biological dynamic coastal processes and their role in coastal recovery (BLUE-coast)::NERC


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