Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips
dc.contributor.author | Poate, Tim | |
dc.date.accessioned | 2022-05-06T15:15:33Z | |
dc.date.available | 2022-05-06T15:15:33Z | |
dc.date.issued | 2020-05-26 | |
dc.identifier.issn | 0749-0208 | |
dc.identifier.issn | 1551-5036 | |
dc.identifier.uri | http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/19201 | |
dc.description.abstract |
Mouragues, A.; Bonneton, P.; Castelle, B.; Marieu, V.; Barrett, A.; Bonneton, N.; Detand, G.; Martins, K.; McCarroll, J.; Morichon, D.; Poate, T.; Rodriguez Padilla, I.; Scott, T., and Sous, D., 2020. Field observations of wave-induced headland rips. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 578-582. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Most of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against structures are scarce. In October 2018, a 3-week field experiment was performed at Anglet beach, SW France, aiming at examining the dynamics of high-energy rip currents in complex settings. The beach is barred with prominent inherited geology, characterized by the presence of a 500-m headland and a natural submerged reef. A large array of in-situ instruments was deployed to capture the temporal and spatial variability of rip flow circulations, including ADCPs, surf-zone drifters and video monitoring. The latter allowed to identify a wide range of rip-flow patterns. Among these patterns, a high-intensity rip current flowing against the headland was a dominant feature for obliquely incident waves. Such a boundary rip current was driven by the deflection of the longshore current against the headland, peaking at 0.7 m/s (5-min time- and depth-averaged) 800-m offshore in 12-m depth for a moderate storm event with 4-m obliquely incident waves. Very-low-frequency (O(1h) and O(30min)) fluctuations of this rip current were observed around low tide. Measurements of the vertical structure of the rip reveal that the deflection rip was more vertically-sheared as the water depth increases, with higher velocities near the surface, which is typical of a theoretical rip head structure. | |
dc.format.extent | 578-582 | |
dc.language.iso | en | |
dc.publisher | Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) | |
dc.subject | Field experiment | |
dc.subject | nearshore circulations | |
dc.subject | headland rip | |
dc.subject | vertical structure | |
dc.title | Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips | |
dc.type | journal-article | |
dc.type | Journal Article | |
plymouth.author-url | https://www.webofscience.com/api/gateway?GWVersion=2&SrcApp=PARTNER_APP&SrcAuth=LinksAMR&KeyUT=WOS:000537556600107&DestLinkType=FullRecord&DestApp=ALL_WOS&UsrCustomerID=11bb513d99f797142bcfeffcc58ea008 | |
plymouth.issue | sp1 | |
plymouth.volume | 95 | |
plymouth.publisher-url | https://meridian.allenpress.com/jcr/article/95/SI/578/437556/Field-Observations-of-Wave-induced-Headland-Rips | |
plymouth.publication-status | Published | |
plymouth.journal | Journal of Coastal Research: an international forum for the littoral sciences | |
dc.identifier.doi | 10.2112/si95-113.1 | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering/School of Biological and Marine Sciences | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA/UoA07 Earth Systems and Environmental Sciences | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth/Users by role | |
plymouth.organisational-group | /Plymouth/Users by role/Academics | |
dcterms.dateAccepted | 2020-02-13 | |
dc.rights.embargodate | 2022-5-13 | |
dc.identifier.eissn | 1551-5036 | |
dc.rights.embargoperiod | Not known | |
rioxxterms.versionofrecord | 10.2112/si95-113.1 | |
rioxxterms.licenseref.uri | http://www.rioxx.net/licenses/all-rights-reserved | |
rioxxterms.type | Journal Article/Review |