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dc.contributor.authorBillson, Oen
dc.contributor.authorRussell, Pen
dc.contributor.authorDavidson, Men
dc.date.accessioned2019-06-24T13:40:42Z
dc.date.available2019-06-24T13:40:42Z
dc.date.issued2019-05-11en
dc.identifier.issn2077-1312en
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/14397
dc.descriptionNo embargo required.en
dc.description.abstract

<jats:p>Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, and with different mixes of swell and wind-waves is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset, comprising shoreline video observations from five contrasting sites (one low-sloping sandy beach, two steep gravel beaches, and two compound/mixed sand and gravel beaches), under storm wave conditions (deep water wave height, H0 up to 6.6 m, and peak period, Tp up to 18.2 s), was used to assess: how the importance and dominance of infragravity waves varies at the shoreline? In this previously unstudied combination of wave and morphological conditions, significant infragravity swash heights (Sig) at the shoreline in excess of 0.5 m were consistently observed on all five contrasting beaches. The largest infragravity swash heights were observed on a steep gravel beach, followed by the low-sloping sandy beach, and lowest on the compound/mixed sites. Due to contrasting short wave breaking and dissipation processes, infragravity frequencies were observed to be most dominant over gravity frequencies on the low-sloping sandy beach, occasionally dominant on the gravel beaches, and rarely dominant on the compound/mixed beaches. Existing empirical predictive relationships were shown to parameterize Sig skillfully on the sand and gravel beaches separately. Deep water wave power was found to accurately predict Sig on both the sand and gravel beaches, demonstrating that, under storm wave conditions, the wave heights and periods are the main drivers of infragravity oscillations at the shoreline, with the beach morphology playing a secondary role. The exception to this was the compound/mixed beach sites where shoreline infragravity energy remained low.</jats:p>

en
dc.format.extent139 - 139en
dc.language.isoenen
dc.publisherMDPIen
dc.titleStorm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?en
dc.typeJournal Article
plymouth.issue5en
plymouth.volume7en
plymouth.journalJournal of Marine Science and Engineeringen
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/jmse7050139en
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Admin Group - REF
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Admin Group - REF/REF Admin Group - FoSE
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Faculty of Science and Engineering/School of Biological and Marine Sciences
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/REF 2021 Researchers by UoA/UoA07 Earth Systems and Environmental Sciences
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Research Groups
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Research Groups/Marine Institute
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role
plymouth.organisational-group/Plymouth/Users by role/Academics
dcterms.dateAccepted2019-05-07en
dc.rights.embargodate2019-11-27en
dc.identifier.eissn2077-1312en
dc.rights.embargoperiodNot knownen
rioxxterms.versionofrecord10.3390/jmse7050139en
rioxxterms.licenseref.urihttp://www.rioxx.net/licenses/all-rights-reserveden
rioxxterms.licenseref.startdate2019-05-11en
rioxxterms.typeJournal Article/Reviewen


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